Friday, September 7, 2012

Week 1: Patchogue NY to Provincetown MA

On the afternoon of labor day 2012, Eric, Louise and I pushed off from the Frank M Weeks Yacht Yard in Patchogue New York. A four hour run down Great South Bay to the inlet at Democrat Point followed. As we ran down the bay under power, we were having continuing problems with the engine overheating. We managed to get through the inlet without running aground, something that is apparently often an issue and we were in the Atlantic ocean. We raised sail in what was, by my standards at least, fairly heavy seas probably 7 or 8 feet. Unfortunately as we attempted to unfurl the jib, the self tailing winch jammed its self. So now we had an overheating engine, it was boiling off its coolant at an alarming rate, and a jammed winch sheet. Un-jamming the winch meant a trip with the other sheet around the outside of the shrouds and around the forstay for me as the boat rocked and rolled and was blown about by the wind. At this point I was seriously starting to get seasick. Finally we got the winch fixed and the sheet back around the shrouds to the port side of the boat. This was my introduction to open ocean sailing.

For the next twenty hours was spent pushing north east about three miles off the coast of long island. I however, did not notice much of this as I spent the majority of my time making trips back and forth between my bunk and the rail to vomit. Finally we arrived in Block Island RI. We spent what was a really a very bleak day walking around the island, very nice place, and Eric and I even walked the 3 miles to a lovely brick lighthouse at the southern end of the island. I was also able to have my first bowl of clam chowder of the trip which stayed down, something I was ecstatic about after not eating for 24 hours.
Southeast Light, Block Island RI
Mohegan Bluffs, Block Island RI






After a night in Block Island we sailed with the wind at our backs, up Buzzards Bay to an anchorage just outside the mouth of the Cape Cod Canal. Was slightly seasick again but certainly there was noted improvement from the earlier passage. Not sure if this was due to calmer and more protected seas or that Ive gotten my sea legs but hopefully it's a combination of the two. A pleasant nights sleep later we were on our way through the Canal and then across Cape Cod Bay to Provincetown. Provincetown is certainly one of the strangest places that I have ever been. All at the same time its incredibly touristy, incredibly artsy and incredibly flamboyant. With exquisite galleries right next door to strange, touristy nick nack shops with names like "Spank the Monkey" or "The Cock and Bull Leather Emporium." We will be here for one more night before heading out tomorrow morning for another 24 hour crossing to Bar Harbor. Hopefully one that is sea sickness free.
Sunset, Buzzards Bay MA (sorry Blogger won't let me rotate this and Im too impatient to go back and fix it)
Provincetown Harbor, Provincetown MA




Sunday, September 2, 2012

9/2/2012: Getting Ready

Well its my last night on land so I figure I had better give a recap of the events of the past week while they are still fresh in my mind. I'll focus on the things which have gone wrong as that's probably more interesting and this week (as I surmise most weeks before departing are) was a bit of a comedy of errors.

When I arrived, Eric informed me that the new part for the exhaust system which had arrived that afternoon was wrong. There was a mix-up somewhere in ordering the piece and was two and a half inches inside diameter when we needed two and a half inches outside diameter. This meant a trip to visit Bob Berg, the machinist whom Eric likes to use, a former gunsmith who suffered from polio in his younger years and now lives and works in a mobile home which was brimming with books, guns and machining tools. Needless to say, quite a character. He did quick work however and we just stepped out for a quick cup of coffee and when we returned he was finished. After a jaunt over to the welders (who worked out of his garage) to get the freshly machined piece attached to the exhaust system, I got to set foot aboard Fiona for the first time. She's certainly a handsome boat, quite rugged, you definitely can picture her sailing amongst the icebergs in the antarctic.

The following day we installed  welded piece of the exhaust system in the engine room with much less stress than we anticipated as the over sized piece had to fit into a rubber hose reinforced with steel wire that its self was two and a half inches inside diameter. Once we had this finished the boat was put into the water with considerable ease by the competent men at Frank M Weeks' yacht yard.

The issues started for us in earnest the following morning. We attempted to raise the jib after re-attaching the bobstay but at every joint in the stay, the carriage caught. It took three trips up in the boatswains chair with a file by Eric for us to finally get the sail raised. Raising the chair by winch was an extremely stressful experience for me. Not quite certain of how to operate the winch which held Eric more than 20 feet in the air was not something I relished in the slightest. Once we had the sail up we started the engine to charge the batteries. Unfortunately, sea water began splashing all over the engine room when we did and it was obvious that we had a leak. It took us a good hour to find the leak which was a trickle coming from a coupling on the gear shaft. To ad insult to injury we were unable to tighten the coupling at all and the leak continued, a leak which Eric felt would sink the boat if we left it unattended. We had to loosen the joint until we were able to clean the threads with a wire brush and then liberally apply grease. Finally with a c-clamp bracing the shaft against the side of the hold we were able tighten down the coupling to the point that the leak stopped. While I thought things were as bad as they could be, the next day, before I was fully awake, I stood up and hit my head on the boom and when I recoiled I hit my face on the steering column. I gave myself a bad bloody nose and coughed up a bit of blood over the rest of the morning. My spirit and dignity were badly maimed but ultimately I was fine.


Eric and I salvaged the day with a lovely sail in the Great South Bay over to Fire Island with Walter, who circumnavigated the globe with Eric years ago, in Eric's Rhodes 19. The rest of the week has been filled with cleaning and loading the boat and exciting rides in Eric's lovely collection of antique cars. 3 Bentleys and a Jag.